A GUIDE TO OUR BEST-OF IN ‘EL CORAZON’ DE MEXICO

San Miguel de Allende isn't just a spot on the map; it's a tapestry of stories, laughter, and lasting memories. My appreciation for its beauty deepened through the lens of my husband's family, especially his late grandmother.

The epitome of elegance and joy to all of those who knew her, she navigated me through the city throughout the years, introducing me to artists, her cherished sunny terraces with a glass of white wine, and consistently nudging me into la Biblioteca to polish my Spanish—her straightforwardness was always endearing.

Despite its frequent appearances on "best of" lists for living, visiting, and the like, San Miguel escapes the trap of becoming another overhyped destination. Perhaps it's the pervasive creativity; here, the ordinary is transformed into extraordinary works of art or craft, attracting everyone from retirees seeking colorful golden years to avant-garde natural wine producers and boutique hoteliers, all adding fresh energy to this historic city.

San Miguel's unique preservation story is as captivating as its cobblestone streets, narrow sidewalks, and warm, earth-toned facades. Once a bustling hub under Spanish rule--at one point larger than New York City of the time-- its importance dwindled after the Mexican War of Independence. By the 1920s, it was almost forgotten, an accidental safeguard of its colonial allure.

The city's artistic resurgence wasn't an accident and can be credited to Felipe Cossío del Pomar. This exiled Peruvian artist and diplomat was drawn to San Miguel's radiant light in the 1920s. His dream of creating an international art colony led to the founding of the Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes in a repurposed convent. This, along with American veterans arriving to study on the G.I. Bill post-World War II, revitalized San Miguel, securing its status as a haven for artists and free-thinkers.

Despite the influx of international residents, San Miguel's art and lifestyle remain true to their Mexican roots, a testament to the city's enduring charm. With that spirit in mind, I’ve shared some of my favorite spots in and around this captivating city.

Casa de la Cuesta, the center, Ki'bok Coffee

Tequila and Beyond

Libation Innovations in San Miguel

In the heart of San Miguel de Allende, the evolving libations scene epitomizes the fusion of tradition with innovation. Casa Dragones, housed in a 17th-century stable, has become emblematic of the city's sophisticated drinking culture, blending the heritage of Mexican tequila with a modern sensibility that resonates with both locals and international visitors. A tasting here in the lush courtyard is something you’ll have to experience on your own. You’ll be thankful you did. You can also enjoy their six-seater tasting room in the historic Dôce 18 Concept House (more on that later), tiled in obsidian collected from the Casa Dragones agave fields.

Adding a unique rooftop experience, Bekeb, conceived by Casa Dragones ambassador and mixologist Fabiola Padilla, introduces a cosmopolitan flair to Casa Hoyos. With a background in New York's Cosme, Padilla crafts innovative cocktails using local herbs and artisanal spirits, including her signature lavender sour, connecting patrons to the essence of Mexican terroir with every sip.

More Mexican spirits, you say? San Mezcal is the perfect afternoon or pre-dinner tasting bar for you, offering an array of hand-selected mezcals and tequilas that highlight the country's distilling artistry. 

Shifting over to wine, Xoler, the pioneer wine bar in San Miguel de Allende, offers more than an exceptional wine list. Located in a setting of a former pharmacy, this cozy venue invites not just to toast with fellow diners but also to indulge in a menu that rivals its wines. It's a place of accidental discoveries and heartwarming returns.

The narrative of San Miguel's wine culture is enriched by the endeavors of Natalia López Mota and Branko Pjanic at Cava Garambullo, who introduce wine enthusiasts to the nuanced realm of natural wines. Their commitment to sustainable viticulture and pure expressions of the vineyard is paralleled by Octágano's dedication to ancient clay vessel fermentation methods, presenting wines that echo the authentic spirit and terroir of San Miguel.

Casa Dragones, Bekeb, and Cava Garambullo

Eats

In San Miguel the Food is Always Good

San Miguel's dining scene? It's a vibrant mix of the local and the global, where tradition meets a dash of the unexpected. Take Andanza, for example, tucked away in a courtyard bursting with greenery. Here, the menu is a playful dance between international savoir-faire and Mexican bounty—think pear and chayote carpaccio that’s a riot of flavors, thanks to a cheeky sprinkle of bleu cheese and a drizzle of black garlic aioli. And if you’re navigating the culinary world with dietary preferences in hand, Andanza’s got your back with plenty of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free delights.

Then there’s Bocaciega, San Miguel’s answer to a Mediterranean hideaway, where the essence of Portugal, Spain, and Italy is served up with a side of romance. Perfect for those dinners where you want the ambiance to whisper sweet nothings. For a casual detour, swing by Tostévere. It’s the kind of place where the tostadas are so good, and the tourists are minimal. And let’s not breeze past The Restaurant, where Chef Donnie Masterton turns local ingredients into a celebration on your plate. It’s all about elevated comfort food here, set against the backdrop of a colonial gem. Fancy a burger that rivals LA’s finest or craving sushi in the heart of Mexico? The Restaurant and its sibling, The Bar at the R, are where your food dreams come to life.

Welcome to San Miguel, where every meal, hole-in-the-wall, or fine dining is bound to be divine.

Xoler, Tostévere, The Restaurant

Café Culture

San Miguel Gets Wired

Of course, coffee in San Miguel de Allende is an art form. We've established that nearly everything is! This is especially true at places like Ki'bok Coffee SMA and El Café de la Mancha. Ki'bok, set among vibrant buildings on a cobblestone street, is celebrated for its world-class brews and welcoming atmosphere, truly embodying the "good aromas" its name suggests. Meanwhile, El Café de la Mancha prides itself on its commitment to Mexican beans, ethically sourced from Oaxaca, delivering cups rich in heritage and flavor. Also, check out Lavanda. A great breakfast and cup…often a line, but it's worth it. One more for now — try the breakfast at Rustica, a laid-back affair with a darling plant-filled courtyard. These cafés, along with spots like Mercado Sano and the vegan-friendly La Cabra Illuminada, are defining San Miguel's coffee and breakfast scene.

Ki'bok Coffee SMA, Rustica, La Cabra Illuminada

Beautiful Things

Shopping and Art in San Miguel

In the heart of San Miguel de Allende lies the Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez "El Nigromante," a beacon of tranquility and artistic fervor. This erstwhile convent-turned-art school, dating back to the mid-18th century, now serves as a vibrant hub for budding and seasoned artists. Its halls and courtyards echo with the sounds of creativity, from gentle guitar strumming to the whispers of brushes on canvas. Amidst the peach-hued walls adorned with historic murals depicting daily Mexican life, students of all ages immerse themselves in a myriad of artistic disciplines, from ceramics to photography, under the watchful eyes of murals painted by students of the 1940s and the monumental yet unfinished, mural by David Alfaro Siqueiros that mesmerizes visitors with its dynamic abstraction.

Across the center from the historic art school, Fabrica la Aurora is a testament to San Miguel’s contemporary art scene. Once a textile factory, it has become a premier cultural venue where art galleries flourish alongside open-air workshops. Check out Alquimia 4, which regularly showcases large-scale works by celebrated Mexican artists, including one of my favorites, Luis Felipe de la Torre. Fabrica la Aurora bridges the past and present of San Miguel's art, offering a space where visitors can delve into the town’s rich artistic heritage and witness the creative evolution that continues to define the community. 

While in the northern part of the center, you must visit and stroll through the Colonia Guadalupe Arts District, where the streets unfurl into an expansive open-air gallery, celebrating a spectrum of mural art. A haven for the artistically inclined, Guadalupe showcases an eclectic mix of mural art that ranges from depictions of Huichol mythology, like the mythical Blue Deer, to abstract pieces that echo the diverse cultural layers of San Miguel itself. This district not only captivates with its visual feast but also narrates the city’s pluralistic soul.

San Miguel de Allende's shopping scene showcases artisanal heritage and contemporary design at its best. At the heart of this is the Mercado de Artesanías, a treasure trove of local crafts that offers a deep dive into the city's creative spirit. This bustling market, nestled in a sunken alley, is lined with kiosks where artisans sell their wares—from ceramics sourced from Dolores Hidalgo to handwoven textiles, providing a colorful array of Mexican treasures and everyday essentials.

A house of brands. Conceived by women. Rooted in revolution. Handcrafted and curated with spirit. Made in the heart of México. I couldn't love Mesón Hidalgo more. The concept was birthed from a serendipitous discovery by Laura Kirar in the center of town and embodies a blend of art, design, and sensory experiences. This collaborative venture unites the talents of women-led brands across design, silversmithing, clothing, and perfumery within a centuries-old manor. It features Laura Kirar's design influence in every aspect, from the guestrooms to the curated boutique collections. It hosts the Xinú boutique, celebrating the Americas' flora through natural fragrances. If you love it as much as I do, you can stay the night in one of their three equally charming guest rooms.

If you seek more fashion, art, and home décor, Dôce 18 Concept House is another winner. Here, a carefully curated collection represents the pinnacle of Mexican and international design. It's where fashion becomes a dialogue between tradition and innovation, inviting visitors to explore and take home pieces that tell a story.

I love hats and always find myself in hat shops when traveling. Palomina by Alejandra “Suki” Armendariz is where to go in San Miguel if you're the same. Known for her bespoke hat-making experiences, Suki melds traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics, offering hats beyond mere accessories to become personal expressions of style. By appointment only.

The organic movement finds its champions in locales such as Via Verde, Tosma, and Via Organica Rancho, which lead the way in offering produce, foods, and personal care products sourced from local farms. These spots are not just shops and cafes but community hubs promoting sustainability and connecting visitors and locals with the rich agricultural landscape of the region.

For those willing to venture a bit further, the towns of Dolores Hidalgo and Leon are good destinations for ceramics and leather goods, respectively. Here, you can source items directly from the artisans and workshops, ensuring authenticity and supporting local craftsmanship.

Fabrica La Aurara, Barrio Guadalupe, Palomina

Outdoors

We Promised You Hot Springs

In San Miguel de Allende, hot springs like La Gruta are a must-stop for us on multiple occasions each visit. I often find that my husband has escaped from the house before dawn to be the first one there. The springs, emerging from volcanic activity beneath the city and stretching towards Dolores Hidalgo, have been a natural retreat for centuries. La Gruta stands out not for its luxurious spa-like setting but its series of outdoor pools and tunnels, offering a natural escape rather than opulence. The main attraction is a cave that leads to a secluded pool, where warm water from above creates a natural massage. Like my husband, visiting La Gruta early in the morning is the best way to experience it. This is when you can enjoy the pools as they're being filled—fresh water, minimal-to-no crowds, and a waterfall massage for the triple win.

Nestled on the outskirts of the center, Charco del Ingenio offers a verdant escape into the heart of Mexico's native flora. The botanical garden and nature reserve celebrate the region's natural beauty, showcasing an extensive collection of cacti and succulents native to Mexico, including several rare and endangered species. It's an immersive experience where the artistry and design of San Miguel are renowned for meeting the unique ecosystem of the area. 

Charco del Ingenio, La Gruta

Where to Stay in San Miguel de Allende

A Spectrum of Hospitality

San Miguel de Allende's accommodations are as diverse and welcoming as the city. Typically my favorite topic, let’s dive into where you should rest your head on a visit to San Miguel de Allende.

Casa de la Cuesta is a charming budget option and immersive journey into Mexican culture, highlighted by one of the country's largest private collections of indigenous masks. The American owners of the B&B and long-time residents invite guests to wander through its sunny courtyard and terraces adorned with treasures collected over the years. Beyond its visual charm, Casa de la Cuesta serves some of the most authentic and delicious traditional breakfasts I've had. Also, great views over the city as it's up the hill. From at $200.

Casa Hoyos: Casa Hoyos, originally San Miguel's currency exchange center, has been transformed by the Hoyos family into a boutique hotel. With four generations tied to this 17th-century Spanish mansion, their update incorporates midcentury modern design while preserving the building's historic character. The interior courtyard features the Hoyos crest with dusty pink tiles and a mosaic of the Virgen Dolorosa de Loreto by artisans from Dolores Hidalgo. The design combines minimalist concrete, Andalusian-style arches, and geometric tiles accented with lush cacti in funky planters. All furniture designed by A-G Studio is inspired by San Miguel de Allende's history, creating a modern space that acknowledges its past. I'm loving it. From $304.

Casa de la Cuesta, Casa Hoyos, Casa Hoyos

L'Otel Casa Arca, nestled within the Dôce 18 Concept House and the historic walls of Casa Cohen, offers an intimate glimpse into San Miguel de Allende's vibrant culture. This colonial-era casa, once home to the entrepreneurial Isaac Cohen from Syria, has become a central hub for the artistic community, blending fashion boutiques, art galleries, and culinary delights on its ground floor. The hotel's top floor features just ten guestrooms, each designed with a minimalist yet artistic touch, from the basic room with its fireplace, indoor and outdoor showers, and balcony to the owner's suite with private orchard access and an outdoor bathtub. From $200 – Receive perks when we book for you.

Our Habitas San Miguel de Allende blends sustainable hospitality with creativity in San Miguel's countryside. Spanning over eight acres with endemic flora, it features 60 terracotta bungalows for serene retreats close to nature. A welcoming copal cleansing ritual introduces guests to wellness-focused stays. Its highlights include the farm-to-table Comunidad restaurant, yoga and meditation spaces, and a wellness center with natural hot springs. Just a short taxi ride from the city center, Our Habitas offers a modern yet ancestral sanctuary, something we've come to love from this small hospitality group. From $199 – Receive perks when we book for you.

While the name has never drawn me in, Casa No Name has. It is a guesthouse where history and modernity intertwine, nestled in the city's heart. This six-room mansion, once the abode of an 18th-century bishop and, later, the creative retreat of fashion icon Deborah Turbeville, marries colonial elegance with an eclectic flair. You'll find corridors adorned with biblical frescoes, a courtyard that whispers tales of the past, and a cultural tapestry of its seasonal artistic endeavors—from Chamber Concerts to Jazz Manouche. Each room, a global art and antiques treasure trove, offers a unique narrative. Venture to the rooftop for a cocktail or a serene moment in the spa tent, all while soaking in views of the town. From $286 – Receive perks when we book for you.

L'Otel Casa Arca, Our Habitas, Casa No Name

The Rosewood San Miguel de Allende offers a refreshing take on colonial elegance, blending spaciousness and tranquility with a vibrant, contemporary style. Since its opening in 2011, The Rosewood has rooted itself in the essence of San Miguel, cleverly masquerading as a historical fixture with its deep cultural integration and impressive Mexican art collection. It stands as a testament to Rosewood's commitment to capturing the spirit of its locale, offering guests an immersive journey into the town's heritage and artistic tradition, all wrapped in the subtle luxury of modern comforts the group is known for, along with the serene lavender-scented surroundings. From $417 – Receive perks when we book for you.

Casa de Sierra Nevada, a Belmond Hotel, distinguishes itself as a hallmark of luxury deeply embedded in the fabric of San Miguel de Allende. Acquired by Belmond in 2006 and rejuvenated in 2018, this property contrasts with more secluded options by offering an immersive city experience. It unfolds across several colonial mansions, including the historic Casa Principal, blending privacy with accessibility through its central courtyards. The 37 rooms exude an authentic elegance, featuring stone fireplaces, copper tubs, and regional textiles, embodying a refined yet understated local aesthetic. Beyond its accommodations, Casa de Sierra Nevada has pioneered culinary education in the area with its renowned Sazón culinary school. It now introduces the Artist's Corner, further enriching guests' experiences with painting classes and gallery tours, making it a cultural hub as much as a place of stay. From $527 – Receive perks when we book for you.

The Rosewood San Miguel de Allende, Colonial Streets, Casa de Sierra Nevada, a Belmond Hotel

Packing it up

San Miguel de Allende, often celebrated for its sizeable expat community, is witnessing a vibrant shift as new generations and returning locals infuse the city with contemporary offerings like natural wine bars, locally sourced coffee, and innovative culinary and artistic ventures. This evolution highlights the city's open embrace of creativity across all forms, ensuring that, despite the influx of international residents, the essence of San Miguel remains deeply rooted in and inspired by Mexican heritage and creativity. Tradition and innovation make the city dynamic, where art and lifestyle coexist and thrive. 

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