How to Spend a Week on Hvar Island in Croatia
What to See, Do, Eat, and Where to Stay While Discovering the Charms of Hvar
For years, I bypassed Croatia, assuming it was overdeveloped and overly trendy. My assumptions were shattered when I visited Croatia in the spring of 2024, specifically Hvar, an island that captivated me with its history, nature, solid people, and good food.
In Hvar, ancient architecture blends with untouched nature, creating a space where history mingles with the stories of local fishers, shopkeepers, wellness travelers, and the occasional revelers. It's a place that balances culture, traditions, and contemporary life at an island pace. Locals often say, "Life is always a struggle; you may as well struggle under a blue sky," capturing the resilient spirit of the islanders. While a few days here might suffice, I recommend spending at least a week to fully dig into the island's offerings.
Photo credit: our Croatian Destination Partner, Journey2Croatia
A Walk Through Time
Hvar's history dates back to Neolithic times before the Greeks took over in 384 BC and established the first colonized island settlement on the Adriatic, known as Pharos, now Stari Grad. The island later fell under Roman control, followed by the Venetians, Turks, Austrians, and even had a brief French stint before returning to Austrian rule. In 1922, it became part of Yugoslavia and declared independence in 1991. These influences have created a layer upon layer of fascinating culture to explore today.
The island boasts six UNESCO World Heritage protections to give you an inkling of its uniqueness, including Stari Grad Plain, the 'Following the Cross' Procession, Agave Lace from Benedictine Nuns, the Mediterranean Diet, Klapa Singing, and the art of dry stone walling.
While tourism to the island is not new, it took off in the 1970s when Hvar was named one of the world’s 10 most beautiful islands and has remained on similar lists since. Today, Hvar is celebrated for its dense pine forests, crystal-clear waters, mild climate, remote villages, and ancient customs. Hvar's are a testament to Mediterranean ancestry and lifestyle. Beyond the capital, the rural interior is hazed in lavender fields, olive groves, and vineyards.
This guide is only meant to scratch the surface and give you a taste of what's good in Hvar. It isn’t a day-by-day itinerary but an inspiration to get you there and enjoy a slower, longer stay.
Photo credits our Croatian Destination Partner, Journey2Croatia
Where to Stay
Maslina Resort
OK, I will try not to oversell Maslina, but for those who know me, when I love something so much, I can't stop talking about it. This is Maslina for me. If you want a highly intentional accommodation with outstanding design, a stunning setting, and total seclusion with a small town within walking distance, Maslina Resort is your place. Situated on a stunning bay, it’s a 15-minute walk from Stari Grad, one of the oldest towns in the Adriatic.
Maslina Resort blends classic Mediterranean styles with contemporary French touches courtesy of its owners. Every design decision respects the surrounding nature and local culture. The design includes scattered pavilions with wooden slatted facades inspired by the Adriatic Sea, summer breeze, white rocks, and dense forests. Local Brac Island stone, Iroko wood, brushed brass, and terracotta tones create a harmonious interior featuring custom-made Croatian furniture and vintage pieces.
The resort focuses on mindful luxury experiences—our specialty. They cater to various traveler types, including families with small children, but you wouldn't know it. Offerings include an extensive wellness space and spa where even the exercise equipment looks good, daily wellness activities, a Mediterranean-inspired restaurant, bar, organic beach garden with tours, beach bar, library, wine and culture club, boardroom, and a Montessori kid’s playroom. Spend a minimum of 3-5 days here to relax and use it as a base for exploring the island when not in Hvar Town. This brings us to the next spot...
Photo credits Maslina Resort
Palace Elisabeth Heritage Hotel
Located in Hvar's port, the Palace Elisabeth Hvar Heritage Hotel combines Venetian heritage with Austrian influences. The entrance takes you through an archaeological site, part of the old city wall. The history here is rich, with the original foundations dating back to ancient times.
While overly plush beds, wall motifs, gold embroidered pillows, and soft pastel palettes are not my thing, I couldn't help but love being in my room here. Maybe it brought out the little girl in me. It felt like a tastefully decorated grown-up dollhouse on the sea. Each room has spectacular views of the town and harbor, many with balconies. It’s ideal for those who appreciate classy, high-end stays with charm and modern comforts.
Hotel Moeesy
Hotel Moeesy is a family-run establishment in a historic structure and picturesque setting surrounded by pine forests and crystal-clear seas. Just ten minutes' walk from the city center, the remote setting over the sea lets you enjoy the city while feeling slightly removed. It offers diverse opportunities for families, couples, and culture enthusiasts. Updated in 2022, the property combines modern amenities with a streamlined, unfussy design with views and pools worth coming here for.
Hidden House in Stari Grad
Hidden House is a 300-year-old Dalmatian stone townhouse in one of Stari Grad’s ancient alleyways, just a short walk from the harbor and its shimmering blue waters. It's the perfect spot for travelers seeking a quieter, more relaxed experience than Hvar Town. Stari Grad, often overlooked by tourists, offers a tranquil alternative with its modest charm and rich history. The town's palm-fringed promenade, narrow streets, and the scent of lavender and jasmine create a serene backdrop for your stay.
Owned and operated by hospitality and design experts Chris Edwardes and Amanda Blanch, Hidden House reflects their extensive experience and passion. Chris and Amanda have opened and managed award-winning venues across Europe. An interior designer, Amanda brings her creative touch to the suites, while Chris, known for his high-profile London bars, offers cocktail masterclasses for guests. Each of the three suites is individually designed and features a lounge, fully equipped kitchen, bedroom, and en suite bathroom, ensuring a stylish and comfortable stay.
Photo Credits Palace Elisabeth Heritage Hotel
Where to Eat
Stajun Hvar
My favorite dining experience in Croatia was at Stajun Hvar in Hvar Town. Gathered around a large table in an intimate setting, we were, served family-style, with more food than we could eat. The chef, unfazed by our cries of "we're full!" kept the dishes coming, accommodating my many dietary restrictions with ease. The camaraderie around the table and the deep dive into local flavors made for an unforgettable evening.
Konoba Stori Komin
Imagine climbing stairs into an abandoned hillside village and arriving at a terrace with breathtaking views. Konoba Stori Komin, opened by a local property owner, serves family-style meals that feel like the best homemade dishes. While the wine may not be the highlight, the overall experience more than makes up for it.
Antika in Stari Grad
Picture dining-room furniture from different eras, candlesticks dripping with years of colored wax, and plaster walls adorned with eclectic photos and paintings. Outdoor tables spill into the alley and piazza, creating a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere. The food ranges from grilled fish to more eclectic fare in the lovely Stari Grad.
Image Credits, our destinations partners at Journey2Croatia
What to Do
Hvar Town
Hvar Town, the island's most lively destination, spreads around a sheltered harbor filled with yachts. Known for its vibrant party scene—which you can easily avoid if it's not your thing—the town also boasts a rich cultural heritage. The vast paved piazza just off the harbor is centered by a baroque cathedral, often the site of destination weddings. Cultural landmarks are numerous and include Europe’s oldest community theater and a medieval fortress perched high above the town with views over Hvar. The climb up through the old-town streets, past the town walls, is rewarded with panoramic vistas.
Cycling Through Villages Plus Wine and Olive Oil Tasting
Spend a day (or days) biking through the island, exploring valleys and hills, and stopping at villages like Svirce. Visit olive oil producers like Božić uje, where locals press their olive oil. Tour the facility and taste the various organic extra virgin olive oil types. The Tomić winery in Jelsa offers wines from local grapes like Bogdanuša, Pošip, and Plavac Mali. Cycling can also lead you to organic natural wineries like Duboković, where you can escape the heat in a moody dark cellar to try unusual and experimental wines. Consider a transfer home if you plan to indulge, as the wine in Hvar is too good to resist.
Hiking and Herbal Walks
Hvar's natural flora is abundant, offering a lush and fragrant backdrop for your visit. Guided herbal walks provide an insightful way to learn about the benefits and uses of local plants. The island is renowned for producing some of the world's highest-quality lavender oil. Hiking through the lavender-covered hills, you'll learn about the diverse flora and visit historic distilleries in quaint villages still in use today.
One of my favorite moments on the island was stumbling upon a small village of 11 inhabitants, complete with its distillery, where islanders still come to press their lavender. We were greeted by a jolly local who serenaded us with his booming voice and accordion and offered gifts of lavender and grappa.
Boating and Island Hopping
Boating in Croatia is a must for any traveler. The crystal-clear, calm waters around Hvar make it ideal for island hopping, snorkeling, and discovering pristine beaches. Set sail to Brač, famous for its striking limestone and rugged beauty, or head to Vis to explore the picturesque villages of Kut and Kamiza. For a more secluded adventure, navigate the hidden coves of the Pakleni archipelago, offering a private and serene escape.
Stari Grad
Stari Grad offers a different vibe from Hvar Town. Here, colorful fishermen’s boats replace yachts, and local cafes outnumber bars. Winding streets lead to small guest houses, and the harbor is surrounded by locals enjoying coffee or wine. The town curves around a deep inlet that has attracted settlers since Greek times. The narrow streets and laneways of Stari Grad’s old town are paved with white stone and marble pathways, adorned with bougainvillea on street corners, and filled with the scents of lavender and jasmine wafting through the air.
Image Credits, our destinations partners at Journey2Croatia
Getting There
Hvar is about an hour by boat from Split, located in the Adriatic Sea. The closest airports are Split, Dubrovnik, and Brač. For a good flow without backtracking, fly into Split, spend an afternoon exploring the city, and then take a private boat or ferry to Hvar. If you can fly out of Dubrovnik, on your return, tour the Pelješac peninsula for its wine and oysters, ending in Dubrovnik for your flight home.
Packing It Up
Hvar Island allows you to slow down, connect with nature, and dive into its deep and multi-faceted history. Whether lounging at a high-end sustainable resort, cycling over hills through villages and valleys, drinking wine throughout the countryside, or dining at family-run restaurants, Hvar offers a travel experience that's hard to pack into words. You'll need to go to experience it yourself.
If you'd like us to plan your trip to Hvar, let us know—we’d love to be part of your adventure.
KATY HOOGERWERF
Katy is a New Orleans native who grew up shaped by the art, design, music, and famously good food her hometown is known for. Her passion and expertise lie in finding design-led conscious businesses around the globe and sharing them with you.
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