2 Days in VALENCIA: Exploring the Colorful Barrio of Ruzafa
Written by Katy
Named the 2022 World Design Capital, the Mediterranean port city of Valencia has a long legacy of art, architecture, and design. One of its most beloved neighborhoods, Ruzafa, is a mix of authenticity and eccentricity in the heart of the city.
With streets lined in traditional mom-and-pop establishments and old markets, there also exists a new wave of boutiques, galleries, and Michelin-star eateries that are just as much a part of the local scene.
We don't believe two days is long enough to spend in Valencia, but if that's all you've got, we'd spend a lot of it getting to know this one area in more depth….and below are the places we’d recommend you to catch during your time there.
Make note, we propose a loose itinerary below based on fall or spring travel. In July and August, you might want to flip this schedule on its head to avoid getting blasted by the sun at the wrong time of day.
DAY 1 — intro to Valencia
Afternoon arrival 13:00
First things first, throw your bags down at your hotel (details on where you should stay below), freshen up a touch, and head out for el menú.
14:00 lunch
A long lunch is served in Valencia typically between 1:00 and 4:00 pm (and outside of dining hours, restaurants are normally closed). Most restaurants serve a prix fixe menu, simply called (albeit confusing to foreigners) “el menú del día” or el menú”–– a 3 to 4-course meal. These menús can be as inexpensive as €7 and go up from there. Some of those lower priced menús can be the best.
Now that you're in the pyrotechnic capital of the world, we recommend to start off with a bang. Fierro will start you off right…Michelin-rated and amazing, it’s great for a dinner option as well.
16:00 fresh Air
Grab some bikes and ride over to Artes y Ciencias. You kind of can’t go to Valencia without having a look at this massive architectural complex, and it’s even close enough to Ruzafa to walk. You don’t need to go inside any of the museums or attractions, just marvel from outside. We never like to say too much about it….we just bring people giving them no expectations and the wow factor is always sky-high.
Artes y Ciencias sits within one of Spain’s largest urban parks at just over 9km long. Jardin del Turia, more simply known as Turia by locals, has a fascinating history as it was once the main river that flowed through the city. After major floods in 1957, they rerouted the waterway and planned to create a highway. For over 10 years, locals protested, pleading to turn the dry riverbed into a park and in 1986, they got their wish. One of the reasons we love the city so much, is its persistence in the form of peaceful demonstrations…I tear up every time I see a protest,I find them so moving!
While the park isn’t visually in the realm of New York’s Central Park or London’s Hyde Park, and it could use some updates throughout, it is the lifeblood of this city and a place you should spend time to understand more about it's people. Everyone uses it at all hours from recreational sports fields, park leisure, playgrounds, a bike thoroughfare, group workouts, or simply a place to go and sit under the trees for a bit. It is BELOVED. So take a stroll or a ride through.
From left to right: drop in yoga in Turia by Yoga with Jennison, Jardin del Turia views, glimpse of Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias
19:00 wine time
Don't try to do dinner yet. You'll be disappointed. But you are right on time for “la merienda”, a light meal and libation enjoyed in the afternoon/early eve. Head to Mes Amours, a small wine bar with an excellent selection of natural wines, organic seasonal bites, and the loveliest owners. They highlight some of the best wines of the region, with an emphasis on the history and traditions of their makers.
Dinner 20:30 ish
You can’t go wrong with the options for dinner in Ruzafa. From the casual cozy La Casa Viva, with its affordable vegan options in a romantic atmosphere, to the more upscale Bouet offering innovative (and delicious) dishes. If you plan in advance (weeks to months), we recommend Nozomi for Japanese fare in an unforgettable space.
Left to right: Mes Amours, Nozomi (image by Nozomi), La Casa Viva
Sleep
Head back and rest your head at the urban oasis YOURS. Here, minimalistic design, great lighting, and craftsman details create a soothing and sophisticated escape from the busy streets of Valencia. We were so excited when YOURS opened in Valencia because there was finally a hotel we could recommend to travelers wholeheartedly.
The manager, Chris, or the owners, Daphne and Wouter, will be happy to fill you in on any current happenings and other places to check out while there. Learn more about YOURS and see booking incentives on their Good Triips feature page HERE.
Photos at YOURS Boutique Hotel
DAY 2— the Nuances of Valencian Meal Times
9:30 a desayunar / the first bite
Awake to the Mediterranean sunshine in your beautifully and minimally designed room at YOURS. Head downstairs to enjoy a specialty cappuccino in the lounge while putting a little pan con tomate in the belly to keep you going until brunch. Have a peek at the micro shop there in the lobby while you’re at it and perhaps pick up a locally crafted gift to bring home (if you book with the Good Trips promo code, you'll take one of their custom scented candles home to remind you of your fabulous stay:)).
10:30 a almorzar / a mid-day bite
Head out for a walk and visit the Mercat de Russafa. This is where most locals shop for their daily produce, meats, spices, and other delish bites. You’ll also find many vendors along the outside perimeter like Som Bio, which sells zero waste and organic personal care items (great for traveling!). Some of our favorite self-care products from around Europe have been purchased from this inconspicuous stand like di Oleo sunscreens, Naturlab deodorants, and Fer a Cheval soap with a hemp travel carrier.
When you’re done wandering, settle down a half a block from the market at Blackbird Cafe (no reservation needed) for el almuerzo –– a light, pre-lunch-lunch which normally occurs around 11:00. Known for their great cups and yummy sticky cinnamon rolls straight out of the oven, but they also have colorful sandwiches and salads. While quaint, the Scandi-styled cafe brings many locals around and you’re bound to witness many planned and spontaneous run-ins here. If the weather is nice, grab a spot street-side and enjoy.
Tip: if you ask for a cappuccino in many parts of Spain, you might get what looks and tastes more like a cafe con leche with cinnamon. If you want a more traditional cap, you can ask for a pequeño cafe con leche or a cappuccino sin canela. Most of the spots we talk about will make the more traditional version that we prefer.
From left to right: Capuccino at YOURS, Mercat de Russafa, Blackbird Cafe
12:00 a comprar / a little shopping
There are so many wonderful independent and sustainably-minded shops in Ruzafa. A few we recommend to check out after brunch include: Hinojo Bazar, a zero-waste boutique where you can peruse a variety of home goods and cosmetics, including travel products like go-ware and toiletries. Visit Gnomo for their selection of designs by local artists–great for gift shopping. If you’re a plant person, Sueca 13 is a darling stop, even if you can’t take a green friend home. They occasionally host workshops so you might check in if this is your thing. And make an appointment to stop by Canoa Lab, an experimental ceramic design studio with a love for clay and craftsmanship.
14:30 a comer / time to dine
Valencians love an excuse to gather and eat. They have 5 named meals throughout the day to do so. You experienced the light breakfast––el desayuno––at YOURS, el almuerzo around 11 at Blackbird, la merienda the eve before at Mes Amours, followed by la cena at your choice. Now it’s time for la comida, my favorite meal of the day.* While our next rec is not a traditional Spanish lunch, you’re in Ruzafa, the place for some of the city’s best global food bites so you shouldn't feel the need to eat strictly Spanish. Bekaa Bistro is known for its authentic Lebanese dishes passed down through generations and has a lovely terrace to enjoy a long meal.
*Keep in mind, these nuances are Valencia specific. Many things, including meal times and nomenclature, vary throughout the country. For example, someone from Andalucía might find it confusing to call the 11am bite lunch/almuerzo.
TIP: It's a good idea to make reservations for restaurants. Spaniards don't do waitlists and it is not unusual to walk into an empty restaurant with no availability because all tables are awaiting their reserved diners.
From left to right: Canoa Lab (photo by Canoa Lab), Hinojo Bazar (photo by Hinojo Bazar), Gnomo
16:30 andando / stroll
Shops are typically closed between 2PM and 5PM, so if you don’t fancy a siesta, head to the newest open green space in the city, Parque Central for a stroll to work off all the food you’ve eaten so far….there will be much more to come! Located in a redeveloped zone between Ruzafa and neighboring Malilla, and south of the train station, the park was designed to be a sustainable urban space in the center of the city. Trees and other vegetation are still young here, so we recommend going once the heat of the day has subsided if it isn’t in the cooler seasons.
18:00 Paella
Take part in the “Clandestine Paella Experience” through Valencia With Koen. You’ll learn to make paella with local chefs (and winners of the 2018 best paella Valenciana contest) at their kitchen in the center of Valencia. Before cooking, have a beer and munch on picoteo and tapas. Note: we don’t recommend this experience in the summer. Make sure to book this experience when David and Jose will be available.
22:00 Valencia by night
If you’re not ready to head back to YOURS, take a walk to see the city at night. It’s a completely different place. Ruzafa especially lights up in the evening and at this hour, all the restaurants will be humming and the discos are starting to buzz. We recommend stopping for a nightcap at Amor Amargo, a traditional bodega with cozy interiors, friendly vibes, and yummy tapas. Call it a night when you’re ready….the city will not push you to bed.
From left to right: Parque Central (photo by Parque Central), Paella, Amor Amargo (photo by Amor Amargo)
DAY 3— Local Art, design, and bites in El Carmen
9:00 seize the day
Pack it up pack it up…Get your things together including your newly purchased items and set your luggage aside at YOURS. Head out for breakfast and a stroll in the old center to finish off the trip.
9:30 let's nibble
Option A: Have a leisurely breakfast/brunch at Bluebell an independent specialty coffee shop in Valencia, created by some badass babes. Nestled on a side street in Ruzafa, a table inside or out on the cozy patio is the perfect place to start your day with delicious coffees and dishes made from organic local food.
Option B: Mercat Central in the center of the city. The best time to go is early morning to avoid the crowds. You can choose to step up to the infamous Central Bar, by the notorious Ricard Camarena, or graze from the many vendor stalls and sit to eat and people watch on the steps of La Llonja. For an immune boost after your days of eating and libations, see if you can find Maria-Angeles near the north entrance, where you can grab a fresh-squeezed pomegranate and blood orange juice.
The market is a great opportunity to grab some snacks for the plane (or train) and a few gifts. We always purchase local and organic chocolate, honey, and olive oil as gifts from a granel near the main entrance (the large staircase facing La Llonja). While you're there, chat it up with the owner, Lorena, and sample some of her vermut (a local drink made from black tea and wine). Mercat Central is one of the most touristed spots in the city, but it’s one of the most beautiful markets on the globe, so you have to check it out.
Tip: Sundays – Most shops and markets are closed on Sundays, including Mercat Central. But many museums are open and free!
Left to right: Bluebell Coffee, Mercat Central, A Granel inside Mercat Central
11:30 take in the streets and shops of Carmen
If you haven't already, take a walk up to the old city to wander the streets of El Carmen. You’ll get some of the best street art sightings in the city and another bounty of cool independent and historic shops selling design ware and traditional items. Check out: Sebastian Melmoth, Sabotage (managed by one of Valencia's favorite street artists, Vinz Feel Free), Atypical Valencia (especially if you're into graphic design), the pop-up shops at Mercado de Tapeneria, Madame Bugalú, Simple, Guantes Camps (I’m a glove girl and this is a glove and accessories store has so much charm and history….obsessed…the owner will guess your glove size the minute you walk in the door and be spot on), and Abanicos Vibenca where you can buy a hand painted fan (a must in the warmer months of Spain).
Make a pass through Centre del Carmen (one of my favorite places on earth)––a contemporary art center on the grounds of a centuries-old convent. It is free and they put together some phenomenal exhibits. I also love to sit in the cloisters and draw or just listen to the birds. If you're lucky, there might be music or an event happening in the main cloister.
If time allows and you need one last meal before heading out, grab a bite at the popular Federal Cafe in the center. They serve up a varied menu all day (when you’re in a pinch and nothing is open, this is your go-to!) and it’s often a favorite of locals and visitors alike. Other star casual eats in the center are Kukla, Io, Refugio, and Alma Libre.
From left to right: Centre del Carme, Street art in Plaza Carmen, Alma Libre
15:00 hasta la proxima
As the afternoon sky reaches its peak, your 48 hours expire and it's time to return to Ruzafa. Collect your belongings and leave with a newfound appreciation for this beautiful city of Valencia and one of its most dynamic neighborhoods, Ruzafa. I'm sure you'll be dreaming up your next visit here in no time.
KATY HOOGERWERF
Katy is a New Orleans native who grew up shaped by the art, design, music, and famously good food her hometown is known for. Her passion and expertise lie in finding design-led conscious businesses around the globe and sharing them with you.
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